摘要
《梓人遗制》是目前有关“罗机子”的唯一直接文献,狄特·库恩等学者曾深入分析机构,文章从库恩研究的未尽之处切入,旨在破解机构配合问题,为复原织罗技艺提供理论基础。采用文献研究法、观察法、个案研究法、对比研究法,综合文献、图像、考古发现、民间遗存等多重证据,论证罗机结构与构件功能,并立足纺织技艺视角,结合织机和织物展开探讨。研究结果显示“大泛扇椿子”为平综柱、“小扇椿子”为绞综柱,以单经轴无筘为特征的“罗机子”只能配以斫刀和纹杆用于织无固定绞组的罗,“鸦儿”等构件数量须视具体织物而定,以织制四经绞素罗情况为例图释各机构配合情状。
Practice of Carpentry is the only direct literature on Luo-ji-zi, so Dieter Kuhn and other scholars analyzed the structure of the loom deeply. This study started from the matters which were not covered in the Dieter Kuhn’s research to solve mechanism coordination problem and provide theoretical basis for restoring gauze weaving skills. This paper demonstrated mechanical structure of Luo-ji-zi and its components’ functions with literature research method, observation method, case study method and comparative study method, based on literatures, images, archaeological discoveries, folk remaining relics and other multiple evidences. The relationship between fabrics and the loom was explored from the perspective of textile technology. Research findings show that Da-Fan-Shan-Chun-Zi and Xiao-Shan-Chun-Zi are the pillar of fixed heddle and doup heddle respectively. Luo-ji-zi which is characterized by single beam and no reed is just used for compound gauze weaving with beater knife and pattern rod as auxiliary parts. The quantity of parts as “ Ya-er ” depends on specific fabrics. Coordination of various mechanism of Luo-ji-zi was explained by an illustration of four-end-twisted gauze weaving.
作者
蔡欣
单珊珊
陈晓风
薛梅梅
朱小行
CAI Xin;SHAN Shanshan;CHEN Xiaofeng;XUE Meimei;ZHU Xiaohang(School of Fashion Design & Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Inheritance of Silk Culture and Digitalization Technology of Product Design,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Institute of German Studies,School of International Studies,Zhejiang University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第6期105-113,共9页
Journal of Silk
基金
浙江省哲学社会科学规划课题项目(18NDJC234YB)
关键词
《梓人遗制》
纺织技艺
织罗
罗机子
结构
Practice of Carpentry
textile technology
gauze weaving
Luo-ji-zi
structure
