摘要
《论语》蕴含着丰富的纺织服饰信息,但纺织服饰史学界很多解释出于礼仪角度来审视,对于技术和纺织服饰文化的角度的检审相当缺乏,导致一些错误的解释盛行。通过文献研究和结合相关的纺织服饰考古,研究认为:《论语·八佾篇》"绘事后素"中"素"乃后素、绘通绣;《论语·公冶长篇》中"束带立于朝"是束大带立于朝,示官宦。同时裘非华夏乃至汉族的鄙夷之物,而是其推崇之物,皆因未对"旃裘"作出正确的解读。黼冕、缊袍分别代指帝王、贫却不困之士的礼服;《论语·雍也篇》中"质"与"文"分别指代衣物上的地组织和花组织,不宜做过多的引申;《论语·子罕篇》中麻冕用工、用时多于丝冕,皆因古人对冕的织物密度的三十升布标准要求所致。此外,纺织度量与中国丧服礼制有着密切关系;君子穿衣搭配都有一定之规,无一不体现中国古代颜色观、礼制,但又不失其家居性。
The Analects of Confucius contains abundant information on textiles and costumes.The explanations made in the circle of historical science of textiles and costumes were out of politeness in most cases,and reviews from the angle of technology and textile and costume culture were seldom made.Thus,misinterpretations prevail.Based on literature research and the related archaeology of textiles and costumes,it is found in this study that the“su”of“hui shi hou su”in Ba Yi of the Analects of Confucius referred to“hou su”and“hui”was equivalent to embroidery;“a man in belt standing in royal court”in Gong Ye Chang of the Analects of Confucius was a high-ranking eunuch in decent belt;Qiu(fur coat)never was inferior goods in Huaxia and even the Han nationality,but fancy goods,which has been being misunderstood;“Fu Mian”and“Yun Pao”referred to emperors and poor scholars respectively;“Zhi”and“Wen”in Yong Ye of the Analects of Confucius referred to ground texture and pattern texture of clothing respectively,and it is inappropriate to make extension too much;according to Zi Han of the Analects of Confucius,the labor and time spent on making hemp crowns were mainly consumed by silk crowns making,because the fabric count of crowns was required to reach 30“shengs”in ancient times;besides,textile measurement is closely related to Chinese mourning apparel etiquette;decent people followed certain rules in dressing,which all reflect the views on color and etiquette in ancient China,without prejudice to the leisure style.
作者
李强
李斌
梁文倩
LI Qiang;LI Bin;LIANG Wenqian(Editorial Department of Fashion Guide Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430200,China;Institute of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430200,China;Jiangxi Culture Art Science Research Base,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Nanchang 330201,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第2期96-101,共6页
Journal of Silk
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(15YJC ZH085)
关键词
《论语》
纺织
服饰
考辨
儒学
The Analects of Confucius
textile
dress
textual research
Confucianism
