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谈翘头鞋 被引量:2

Discussions on Toe-Up-Warped shoes
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摘要 运用文献分析和实地考察方法,讨论翘头鞋作为中国传统鞋履的一种重要类型,历经几千年的发展,却在近代衰落的原因。并阐述在传统文化遗产备受关注的当代背景下,翘头鞋的回归面临的两大难题:一是在审美上,翘头的比例需要重新设计,可以按照现在人的审美尺度进行比例上的调整;二是在工艺上,从鞋底材料、鞋面、鞋楦三方面都需要克服与当下工艺相矛盾之处,设计师可以在这些方面对翘头形制有所创新。研究表明,翘头鞋在当今社会依然存在一定价值,可应用于特定场合或迎合小众需求,不能全盘否定。 With literature analysis and field investigation methods,this paper discusses reasons for the decline of ToeUp-Warped shoes,which was an important type of traditional Chinese shoes,in modern times after thousands of years of development,and elaborates two major difficulties faced by the regression of Toe-Up-Warped shoes under the contemporary background with traditional cultural heritage receiving great concern: first,in terms of aesthetics,Toe-Up-Warped proportion should be designed again and adjusted according to aesthetic standard of modern people;second,in terms of process,conflicts with current process in shoe sole material,vamp and shoe tree should be overcame and designers can innovate Toe-Up-Warped shape and structure in these aspects. The research shows that Toe-Up-Warped shoes have certain value in the current society and can be applied to specific circumstances or cater for the demand of some people.
作者 陈伟 袁宣萍
出处 《丝绸》 CAS CSCD 北大核心 2016年第1期66-70,共5页 Journal of Silk
关键词 翘头鞋 形制 比例 鞋工艺 Toe-Up-Warped shoe shape and structure proportion shoe-making technique
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