摘要
通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆内收藏的女装实物资料的研究、整理,将近代汉族传统滚边装饰工艺分为单独滚边工艺和组合滚边工艺两大类别,并将典型的工艺制作步骤、针法等信息详细记录下来。在此基础上,分别总结出单独滚边工艺、滚滚组合、滚镶组合、滚嵌组合工艺各自的缝制特点,并进一步从装饰部位、类型、面料、演变等方面总结出滚边装饰规律;从裁剪、缝制等方面总结出滚边工艺技巧。物质的东西随着时间的推移,会逐渐消失,但信息却可以较好地保存延续。为有效地传承传统装饰工艺的精髓,对传统滚边工艺在现代服装设计中的传承提出了一些建议。
Through studying and sorting out the collections of women’s apparel in the Folk Costumes Museum ofJiangnan University, the traditional piping process of the modern Han nationality is divided into two major categories：the individual piping process and the combination piping process, and a typical process of making steps, needling andother information are recorded in detail. Based on the above information, respective sewing features of the individualpiping process, piping-piping combination, piping-inlay combination, piping-embedding combination are summedup, and the law of piping decoration is further summed up from the decoration parts, types, fabrics, evolution andother aspects. Besides, the craftsmanship skills of piping are summed up from cutting and sewing, etc. As time goesby, material things will gradually disappear, but the information can be well preserved. In order to effectively inheritthe essence of the traditional decoration process, some suggestions are put forward for the inheritance strategy of thetraditional piping process in modern clothing design.
作者
王艳香
崔荣荣
WANG Yanxiang;CUI Rongrong(College of Textiles and Clothing;Jiangsu Research Center of Intangible Cultural Heritage;Key Laboratory of Eco,textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2018年第7期75-83,共9页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会基金艺术学重点项目(15AG004)
江苏省"333工程"第二层次中青年人才项目(BRA2016366)
关键词
近代
汉族女装
滚边
制作工艺
传承
modern
the Han women’s apparel
piping
making process
inheritance
