摘要
为丰富丝织品风格,采用一氟均三嗪活性染料对生丝织物进行染色,测试了染色后织物丝胶溶失率、色牢度、手感风格,并对染色机理进行了初步探究。结果显示:一氟均三嗪活性染料由于反应性高,所需固色温度低,染色过程中溶失的丝胶较少,色牢度满足生产要求;由于丝胶结晶度低,氨基酸侧链亲水性基团较多,染料更易上染丝胶;染色过程中,主要为氨基和酚羟基与染料发生了反应;高效液相色谱结果表明,丝胶大分子侧链上的酪氨酸也参与了与染料的反应;一氟均三嗪活性染料染色后生丝织物能较好的保留生丝较为硬挺的手感风格。
In order to enrich the style of silk goods,the raw silk was dyed with MF reactive dyes.The sericin dissolution-loss ratio,color fastness and hand feeling style were tested,and the dyeing mechanism was preliminarily investigated.The results show that since the MF reactive dyes have a high reactivity and a low fixing temperature,the sericin dissolution-loss ratio is low and the color fastness can satisfy the requirements of production.Because the crystallinity of the sericin is low and there are many hydrophilic groups on the amino acids,its more easily dyed with sericin.Amino and phenolic hydroxyl group reacted with the dyes mainly in the dyeing process.The result of HPLC shows that Tyrosine on the sericin also reacted with the dye.After dyeing with the MF reactive dyes,the raw silk is still keep the sfiff hand feeling of raw silk.
作者
王郑聊
程荣煌
余志成
WANG Zhengliao;CHENG Ronghuang;YU Zhicheng(College of Materials and Textiles,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《现代纺织技术》
2018年第4期64-68,共5页
Advanced Textile Technology
关键词
生丝织物
活性染料
丝胶
溶失率
手感
raw silk
reactive dye
sericin
dissolution-loss ratio
hand feeling
