摘要
主要研究了剪切、烘干、平压、汽蒸后整理过程及其参数对织物机械性能、表面性能及手感的影响,并用SPSS软件对实验数据进行了统计分析,得出影响织物性能的显著因素。此外,为客观评价织物手感,先用KES-F系统测定相关指标数据点,再借助织物手感客观理论,计算PHV值和THV值。研究发现:拉伸性能主要受平压处理影响;剪切性能弯曲刚度主要受高温蒸汽处理影响;高温烘干处理可提高毛织物的摩擦因数和几何粗糙度;单一的后整理方式对织物机械性能的影响低于混合后整理方式的影响;F4整理方式是摩擦因数和几何粗糙程度改善最大的整理方式,也是最适合作为毛织物手感评价的整理方式。该研究为合理设计后整理参数及客观评价织物手感等级提供依据。
Influence of shearing, drying, felt pressing and decatizing on mechanical and surface properties of fabric as well as fabric hand, was studied in this paper, and given the significant factor of affecting finishing fabric properties by SPSS software statistical analysis. In order to objectively evaluate fabric hand, the PHV value and THV values were calculated after getting the data points by KES-F system. The following conclusions had been made： felt pressing mainly affected tensile properties of fabric; shear properties and bending stiffness were mainly affected by higher temperature＇s steam treatment; high-temperature drying process can increase the coefficient of friction and geometric roughness of wool fabrics ; a single way of finishing the fabric mechanical properties lower than the impact of the impact of mixed mode finishing approach. The fabric sample treated using the finishing process Fd showed the greatest improvement when the coefficient of friction and geometric roughness was evaluated. Additionally, F4 was optimal finishing approach of wool fabric. Besides, this result can also provide a reference for reasonable designing finishing parameters and objective evaluation of fabric hand.
作者
苏兆伟
韦玉辉
SU Zhaowei WEI Yuhui(Hangzhou Technology College, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2017年第3期15-19,共5页
Wool Textile Journal
关键词
干后整理
毛织物
机械性能
外观性能
织物手感
finishing treatment
wool fabric
mechanical and surface properties
fabric hand
