摘要
饰金是明代丝绸装饰的重要方法,从制作工艺上可分为织金、刻金、金绣和销金。明代前后期的丝绸饰金面貌差异较大,在制作工艺、色彩搭配、使用对象上都有所体现。前期丝绸饰金面积较大,使用材料单一,后期开始转向金彩并用,万历年间形成了材料丰富、金彩交织的晚期风貌。在这个过程中,饰金丝绸生产比例上升,使用范围也从上层扩展到了民间。明代丝绸饰金受到奢侈世风、审美趣味等因素的影响,其风格与使用的演变不仅体现着织绣工艺的进步,也反映了服用制度的变迁。
Gold decoration is an important method of silk decoration in the Ming dynasty,and it can be divided into gold brocade,gold tapestry,gold embroidery and gold foil paste according to the production craftsmanship. The appearance of silk ornamental gold in the earlier and later Ming dynasty has a big difference,which is reflected on the production craftsmanship,color collocation and use object. In the earlier period,the area of silk gold decoration is large and the material used is single,but in the later period,it turned to use of gold and color together,and a late style of abundant materials and the mixture of gold and color formed. In that process,the manufacturing proportion of ornamental gold silk rose,and it＇s using range also expanded from the upper class to the folk. Silk gold decoration in the Ming dynasty was also influenced by luxury public morals,aesthetic taste and other factors,and the evolution of its style and use not only embodies a progress of embroidery process but also reflects the change of wearing system.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2016年第8期66-71,共6页
Journal of Silk
基金
河南省软科学研究计划项目(142400410128)
关键词
明代
丝绸
饰金
奢侈
僭越
Ming dynasty
silk
gold decoration
luxury
arrogation
