摘要
以高收缩锦纶为添纱／衬垫纱，双股锦纶为面纱，通过改变衬垫／添纱比和浮线长度共设计了9块无缝针织织物，并对经过热水收缩处理后的9块织物进行压缩性能、弯曲性能、表面摩擦性能、拉伸性能等织物风格性能的测试，并利用模糊聚类法对织物的手感风格进行了综合评价。结果表明：添纱组织高收缩锦纶绉织物表面起绉程度大，织物厚实、蓬松，手感硬挺、粗糙；衬垫组织高收缩锦纶绉织物表面起绉程度小，织物较薄，手感柔软、光滑；并且随着浮线长度的增加，高收缩锦纶绉织物的蓬松性和拉伸变形能力增加，压缩回复性、弯曲变形能力以及表面性能降低。
In this paper,9pieces of seamless knitted fabric in total were designed by using highshrinkage polyamide as plaiting yarn/laid-in yarn and double strands of polyamide as the veil,as well as by changing the percentage of laid-in yarn/plaiting yarn and floating thread length.Besides,tests for fabric styles and performances such as compression performance,bending property,surface friction performance and tensile property of the 9pieces of fabric after shrinkage processing with hot water were conducted.In addition,the hand feeling and style of fabrics were comprehensively evaluated by using the method of fuzzy clustering.As shown in the result,the plaiting stitch high-shrinkage polyamide fabric is high in creping degree on its surface with thick and fluffy fabric and feels stiff and rough;the laid-in stitch high-shrinkage polyamide fabric is low in creping degree on its surface with thin fabric and feels soft and smooth;with the increase in floating thread length,fluffiness and tensile deformation of high-shrinkage polyamide fabric increase while the compression resilience,bending deformation and surface performance decrease.
出处
《浙江理工大学学报（自然科学版）》
2016年第3期333-338,共6页
Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University(Natural Sciences)
基金
浙江省重大科技专项和成果转化工程项目(2013T103)
浙江省重点科技创新团队项目(2011R50004)
关键词
高收缩锦纶
织物风格
模糊矩阵
无缝针织物
high-shrinkage polyamide
fabric style
fuzzy matrix
seamless knitted fabric
