摘要
中国社会礼法体制的变迁,能从服饰面料中管窥其端倪。葛麻织成的布与蚕丝织成的帛,是古代服饰的两种主要纺织面料。基于布与帛对比的视角,通过历史文献与出土文物,考察葛麻纺织的面料特征,考辨其在服饰形制中的角色定位,进而来揭示布衣服饰文化的内涵与延伸。研究表明,布衣作为服饰面料和礼乐精神的二元文化根基,其建立在以葛麻质地为物质前提、以服制为礼制载体的基础之上。布衣指代的演变,伴随着纺织科研和人文语境的变化。
Changes of Chinese social etiquette system can find its clue from apparel fabrics. Ko-hemp cloth and silk fabric are two major textile fabrics in ancient clothing. Based on comparative perspective of hemp and silk cloth,through historical literature and unearthed relics,this paper investigated characteristics of ko-hemp textile and its role in styles and clothing systems to reveal the connotation and extension of commoner clothing culture. Studies show that commoner cloth is the bicultural foundations for apparel fabrics and ritual spirit. its material base is ko-hemp cloth,its wears are the carriers of cultural rituals and etiquette. Changes of commoner clothing connotations are happening along with the changes of textile research and human context.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2016年第4期72-77,共6页
Journal of Silk
关键词
丝帛
布衣
葛麻
礼制
服饰文化
silk
commoner clothing
ko-hemp
etiquette
clothing culture
