摘要
通过对国内外绿松石首饰的现状考察,归纳出目前绿松石首饰设计师通常选择质地好、颜色美、花纹美的的绿松石进行创作,且绿松石首饰的款式较局限,如大部分品质一般、形态较小且不规整的绿松石原料不被利用,或被进行优化处理后仿造高品质的绿松石售卖。基于此,尝试选择非金属类的天然皮革材料与绿松石结合进行创新设计。植鞣牛皮是皮革材料中比较常用和大众化的一种皮,也是皮革艺术家们最常用的材料之一,其后期的可加工性强,具有可塑性、可染性和可雕性等特点,创作空间大,能给设计师的创作带来无限的可能。因此,围绕绿松石的宝石学性质,从绿松石的颜色花纹、连接方式和首饰造型这三个方面综合考虑,将植鞣牛皮这种新材料运用到绿松石首饰的设计中。本文主要探讨两者相结合设计首饰时,如何将绿松石的颜色花纹特点通过植鞣牛皮来突出或自然的呈现;又如何在减少对绿松石损伤的前提下通过植鞣牛皮的基本制作工艺合理的将两种非金属材质连接起来;以及在绿松石的首饰造型设计时,考虑如何运用植鞣牛皮的加工工艺,应用如镂空、雕饰、编织等工艺从平面造型到立体造型进行变化,充实首饰的造型样式,改善首饰的表面装饰等问题。力求通过对这些问题进行探讨和提出解决方法,进行个人作品创作。希望以此提高质地欠佳的绿松石在首饰设计中的利用率,从而丰富现有的绿松石首饰款式,推动绿松石在首饰行业中的发展。
Based on the investigation of turquoise jewelry at home and abroad,this paper concludes that turquoise jewelry designers usually choose turquoise with good texture,beautiful colour and beautiful pattern to create.However,the style of turquoise jewelry is relativelylimited,so most of the turquoise with average quality,small size and irregularity are not used,or optimized to imitate high-quality turquoise for sale.Therefore,the author tries to combine the leather materials with turquoise for innovative design.At the same time,the vegetable tanned cowhide is one of the most popular materials used by leather artists,it has the characteristics of plasticity,dye ability and carving,which can be processed in the later stage,and bring unlimited creative possibilities to designers.Accordingly,this article mainly discusses how to apply vegetable tanned cowhide to highlight the colour and pattern of turquoise when designing jewelry,how to use the two materials of vegetable tanned cowhide and turquoise to reduce the turquoise damage and how to apply such as hallowing,carving,weaving and other methods,from the two-dimensional to the three-dimensional modeling changes,thereby enriching the jewelry styles and improving its surface decorations of turquoise jewelry.The authors tried to discuss and solution these problems,and created some personal works with turquoise,in order to improve the utilization of turquoise with poor quality in the jewelry design through this innovative way,and enrich the existing turquoise jewelry style and promote the development of the turquoise industry.
出处
《宝石和宝石学杂志》
CAS
2018年第S1期218-223,共6页
Journal of Gems & Gemmology
基金
国家艺术基金资助项目<湖北竹山绿松石艺术创作人才培养>(项目编号:2018A-04-(115)-0646)
关键词
绿松石首饰
植鞣牛皮
皮革首饰
首饰设计
turquoise jewelry
vegetable tanned cowhide
leather jewelry
jewelry design
