摘要
对江南大学服饰文化传习馆、洛阳民俗博物馆、河南省中原工学院的馆藏47条清末民国时期的凤尾裙进行了细致考察,并结合史料对其起源、形制、面料、色彩、缝制工艺等方面进行了研究。研究表明:凤尾裙按其缎带的形态,可分为绣条式、连缀式、合并式三种类型;在面料方面,凤尾裙穿戴展露在外的面料基本采用真丝织物,不常展露的部分基本为棉麻面料;在色彩搭配的规律上,凤尾裙面料总体上呈现赤、青、玄、白四种主色调,其规律可以概括为"五彩彰施,必有主色,一色为主,他色辅之"。凤尾裙的制作工艺复杂,其主要的三个制作阶段分别为:准备阶段、缝制阶段、整合阶段。准备阶段主要分为设计款式、制作厥子、裁剪绣片形状、裁剪面料,缝制阶段主要包括滚边、镶边、刺绣、上里,整合阶段主要包括连片、上腰、缀铃铛、熨烫。
Meticulous investigation was made for 47 phoenix-tail skirts in the late Qing dynasty and the period of the Republic of China collected in Costume Culture Center of Jiangnan University, Luoyang Folk Customs Museum and Zhongyuan University of Technology. Meanwhile, the origin, form, material, color and technology of phoenix-tail skirts were studied in combination of historical data. Research shows that, according to the ribbon form of phoenix- tail skirts, they can be divided into three types： the embroidered type, the linking type and the combined type. About the fabric, the parts exposed always adopt silk fabric, and the parts which are not exposed always use cotton and linen fabrics. About the rule of colors, phoenix-tail skirts show red, green, black and white on the whole. The rule can be generalized as follows： among five colors, there must be a main color, and other colors will assist the main color. The making craft of phoenix-tail skirts is very complex. The main three production stages are： preparation, sewing and integration. The preparation stage is divided into style design, making ＂Juzi＂, cutting embroidery＇s shape and cutting fabrics. Sewing stage includes edging, embroidering and sewing on lining. Integration stage includes connecting the embroidery, sewing waist＇s part, sewing the bell and tassel, and pressing.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2015年第7期52-58,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会科学基金项目(12BMZ049)
关键词
凤尾裙
清代裙饰
设计元素
制作技艺
服饰文化
phoenix-tail skirt
skirt in Qing dynasty
design elements
production techniques
costume culture
