摘要
为了研究鲜茧生丝与干茧生丝在后道工艺中应用的差异性,以同规格的鲜茧生丝与干茧生丝作纬丝,在经丝原料及规格相同的条件下,分别织造12131双绉。并对织造准备过程中的络丝、并丝、捻丝等工序的断头率、生丝的纵向形态和织造后成品的平方米质量及染色深度等进行了分析和研究。结果表明:在相同工艺条件下,鲜茧生丝在络丝、并丝、捻丝等工序的断头率、倒筒过程中的清糙次数和生丝表面的疵点明显高于干茧生丝,鲜茧生丝制织的面料外观质量不如干茧生丝制织的面料;鲜茧生丝制织面料的练白平方米质量低于干茧丝制织的面料,鲜茧丝与干茧丝制织面料在初期的染色性能上无明显差异,但在色牢度等方面尚需要进一步研究。
To study differences of application of raw silk of fresh cocoon and dried cocoon in subsequent processes, 12132 crepe de Chines are woven respectively with raw silk of fresh cocoon and dried cocoon of the same specification as weft under the condition of same raw materials and specification of warp yarns. This paper analyzes and studies the breakage of processes such as reeling, doubling and throwing in the preparation process of weaving, longitudinal form of raw silk, square meter quality and dyeing depth of finished products after weaving. The result shows that the breakage of such processes as reeling, doubling and throwing, times of rough cleaning in the process of rewinding and defects on the surface of raw silk of fresh cocoon are higher than those of raw silk of dried cocoon; the appearance quality of fabrics made of raw silk of fresh cocoon is inferior to that made of raw silk of dried cocoon ; refining square meter quality of fabrics made of raw silk of fresh cocoon is lower than that made of raw silk of dried cocoon ; fabrics made of raw silk of fresh cocoon and dried cocoon do not have significant differences in dyeing property in the early stage, but their color fastness requires further research.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
北大核心
2014年第4期15-17,35,共4页
Journal of Silk
关键词
鲜茧缫丝
生丝
鲜茧丝
丝绸
fresh cocoon reeling
raw silk
fresh cocoon silk
silk
