摘要
胸部造型是研究女装外观效果的关键,其结构处理技术和参数设计将直接影响服装与人体体表的吻合程度和整体平衡。以165/84A标准人体模型为研究对象,排除服装面料对衣身结构的影响,分别将胸高抬高1、2、3 cm制作紧身衣,以立体裁剪方式取得衣身样板,通过平面图片叠加的分析方法,分析考察不同胸高状态下紧身衣样板中各工艺点的位移变化,总结平面结构的变化规律。结果显示:胸高每增高1 cm,胸围增量、胸上下围差量呈等差增加,变量都由前衣片提供,乳凸量、肩省、腰节省都相应增大,后衣身各项围度尺寸没有变化。由此得到的紧身衣衣身样板可以为其他贴体类成衣结构设计提供参考。
The silhouette of the chest is critical to the appearance of the women′s dress.The structure processing technology and parameter design will directly influence dress coinciding with the figure and global balance.To take the 165/84A figure model as research object and eliminate the fabric′s influence on the structure,the body blouse is made by increasing the chest height by 1,2 and 3 cm respectively.To get the pattern of the structure with draping,the variation of displacement of different process points of the body blouse pattern in different chest heights is observed and the change rule is summarized by the analysis method of plane pictures stacking.The result shows that the chest measurement increment and the dispersion of the upper and lower chest measurement will increase by equidifferent with chest height increasing by 1 cm,the variable is all provided by the front bodice,the breast convex amount,shoulder dart and waist dart will increase correspondingly,and the measurement size of the back bodice dont′ change.The pattern of body blouse in this study will serve as a reference for structure design in making other body blouses.
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2009年第2期89-94,共6页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
辽宁省教育厅资助项目(20040136)
丹东市科学技术计划资助项目(06141)
关键词
胸高
紧身衣
平面结构
工艺点位移
平面结构制图
chest height
body blouse
plane structure
displacement of process point
drawing of plane structure
