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天丝/苎麻交织平纹布的染整工艺 被引量:1

Dyeing and finishing of Tencel/ramie intertexture tabby fabric
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摘要 采用气体加热式磁棒烧毛机对天丝/苎麻交织平纹布烧毛;比较了平幅冷轧堆退煮漂一步法工艺和汽蒸退煮漂一步法工艺,及不丝光、半丝光、全丝光三种丝光方法;试验了活性染料染色、酶处理、树脂整理、特柔整理的工艺处方及条件。结果表明,平幅冷轧堆退煮漂一步法,可减少织物的折皱和擦伤,且毛效和手感好;半丝光工艺染色得色较深,颜色鲜艳,手感柔软;采用活性染料染色,并适当提高染色温度,可提高染料的透染性;酶处理、树脂整理和特柔整理则赋予织物表面桃皮绒风格。 The gas singeing machine was used for the Tencel/ramie intertexture tabby fabric. One step desizing-scouringbleaching process both using cold-pad-batch or steaming technique, as well as three mercerizing methods concerning non-mercerizing, semi-mercerizing and whole mercerizing were compared. The process recipe and condition of reactive dyeing, enzyme treatment, resin finish, Tombling were tested. As a result, with open-width cold-pad-batch technique, the wrinkle and scraped of the fabric were reduced and capillary and handle were satisfactory. The semi-mercerizing process exhibted deeperand brighter shade and soft handle. Once reactive dyeing were used, the temperature should be increased properly for improving the penetration of dyes. Enzyme treatment, resin finish and Tombling could give the fabric peach skin effect.
作者 李锦华
出处 《印染》 北大核心 2006年第14期24-26,共3页 China Dyeing and Finishing
关键词 染整 交织织物 平纹织物 TENCEL 苎麻 dyeing and finishing mixture fabric plain cloth Tencel ramie
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