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近岸多向不规则波传播变形的数学模型 被引量:2

Mathematical Model for Irregular Multi-Directional Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Region
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摘要 开发了考虑非线性弥散作用的缓坡多向不规则波传播变形的数学模型,首先,根据线性波动的叠加原理和波浪方向谱理论,以考虑非线性弥散影响的规则波缓坡方程为基础,推导出考虑非线性弥散影响的缓坡多向不规则波传播变形的微分方程;其次,基于以上方程使用有限差分方法建立数学模型;然后,采用实验室波浪试验资料对本数学模型进行验征计算;最后,对非线性弥散对波浪传播的影响进行研究.研究结果表明:开发的数学模型合理、可信;在浅水区,非线性弥散作用明显,考虑非线性弥散作用十分必要. A mathematical model for the mild-slope irregular multi-directional wave transformation incorporating a nonlinear dispersion effect was developed. Firstly,according to the superposition principle of linear wave and the wave directional spectrum theory, the governing equations for the mild-slope irregular multi-directional wave transformation were derived considering nonlinear dispersion effect and on the basis of the mild-slope regular wave equations incorporating nonlinear dispersion effect;secondly, a mathematical model based on the above equations was set up by the finite difference method;thirdly, the model was verified against the laboratory wave measurements ; finally,the effect of nonlinear dispersion on wave propagation was studied. The results show that the proposed effect into th mathematical model is reasonable and credible. It is important to incorporate nonlinear dispersion e model because of its significance in the shallow water.
出处 《天津大学学报》 EI CAS CSCD 北大核心 2006年第3期289-294,共6页 Journal of Tianjin University(Science and Technology)
基金 国家杰出青年科学基金资助项目(40225014)中国博士后科学基金资助项目(2003034327).
关键词 多向小规则波 折射 绕射 非线性弥散 数学模型 方向谱 irregular multi-directional wave refraction diffraction nonlinear dispersion mathematical model directional spectrum
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