摘要
丽江纳西族女性披用的羊皮披肩是该民族非遗服饰中的典型代表。该文在田野调查的基础上,对披肩的整体造型与局部装饰设计特征进行了详细解读,从中引申出丽江纳西族非物质文化遗产中的历史内蕴与观念传承。就造型而言,结构安排中渗透着该民族对"七"的数字崇拜,形制、廓型与材质的设计上体现出对立统一的原始辩证法思想,色彩搭配中体现出对黑与白的色彩崇拜。就装饰而言,无论是手工还是机器制作,七星圆盘传达出的是该民族价值观中对勇敢、勤劳美德的强调,披肩背带则折射出与自然"情同手足"的生态观念。
The sheepskin cape worn by Lijiang Naxi female is a typical representative of their ethnic costume culture.On the basis of field investigation,the modeling and decoration of the cape are described in depth here,from which we can draw out the historical connotation and the idea in the intangible cultural heritage of Lijiang Naxi people.In terms of modeling,the number worship of the"Seven"is reflected by the structure;the idea of dialectics is reflected by its form,silhouette and material and there is also the worship of black and white colors.As far as decoration is concerned,whether hand-made or machine-made,the seven-star discs convey the ethnic group’s emphasis on the virtues of courage and industry,while the straps reflect the ecological concept of mankind’s"brotherhood"with nature.
作者
张顺爱
管姝
ZHANG Shun’ai;GUAN Shu(College of Fashion and Design,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)
出处
《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》
2021年第1期39-45,共7页
Journal of Donghua University:Social Science
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目“雷山苗族服饰非物质文化遗产传承与保护的研究”(项目编号:14YJA760052)
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目“文化软实力视域下楚雄彝族服饰非遗传承及创意发展研究”(项目编号:2232021G-08)
关键词
丽江纳西族
羊皮披肩
非遗
文化内涵
Lijiang Naxi
sheepskin cape
intangible cultural heritage
cultural connotation
