摘要
介绍了汉代女性的妆容,并详细分析了其审美背后的思想原因。西汉女性审美主要受道家“黄老之学”自然无为思想的影响,同时倡扬一种开放的、积极的和实践的“大美”气象,妆容修饰整体上趋于简约素朴、清新淡雅、追求天趣。西汉后期,汉武帝“罢黜百家,独尊儒术”的政策使得新儒学体系逐渐成为汉代社会的统治思想。在妆容修饰上,其一是主张有克制地修饰,将妆饰与修身养性结合起来;其二是从理论上确立了女性对男性的全面依附关系,导致女性的妆饰迅速转向追求娇弱与纤柔。这一道一儒的两种倾向,奠定了中国后期封建社会农耕文化下汉族女性主流妆容的审美规范。
This article is listing the facts of female makeup in Han dynasty,and producing a details analysis on the cultural reasons which impact the aesthetic at that time.Taoism had had a great influence on the aesthetic of female makeup in the time of Western Han dynasty,i.e.the preference of natural and Tao of"wuwei"(without exertion),and promotion of"damei"(the beauty with open,positive,and experimental nature).The female makeup was tending towards simple,fresh,light,and vapid style.Producing detaled analysis on the cultural reasons.At the later stage of Western Han dynasty,Confucianism was promoted,and became widely known across China under emperor Wu,which preferred more restraint female makeup,i.e.makeup as a part of self-cultivation practise.Confucianism also claims the dependent relations between women and men,which made the female makeup more feminine and delicate.With the influence of Taoism and Confucianism,the mainstream aesthetic of female makeup had been founded for the Han women in the ancient China,a feudal society with agrarian culture.
作者
李芽
LI Ya(Shanghai Theatre Academy,Department of Stage Art,Shanghai 200040,China)
出处
《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》
2022年第1期60-65,共6页
Journal of Donghua University:Social Science
基金
2019年上海市冷门绝学项目“中国古代妆品与妆容复原研究”(项目编号:2019ZJX005)
2017年上海市教委曙光计划项目“中国古代妆容谱复原研究”(项目编号:17SG49)
2018年度柒牌非物质文化遗产研究与保护基金一般项目“中国古代妆容研究”(项目编号:2018立项第01号)的阶段性成果
关键词
审美
妆容
两汉
女子
简约素朴
娇弱纤柔
aesthetic
makeup
Han dynasty
female
preference of natural
feminine and delicate
