摘要
悦与巾三代已有,随着社会的发展与人们的物质需要,慢慢衍变为手巾、手帕、汗巾、包袱等等。在涓洁之道的思想指引下的礼仪,悦巾发挥着洁清致敬的作用。相辅相成的是,在宫廷与士大夫雅礼中,悦巾保留了名字,是礼仪复古的表现之一。悦巾在传统社会的上层礼仪与社会中所代表的是一种至高清洁的雅文化,是地位与品行的象征,同时也是尊卑秩序的体现。无论是上层贵族礼仪,或是民间风俗,悦巾都不可或缺。在亦礼亦俗的民间社会,悦巾所起到的作用与在上层社会相比,更加回归清洁本位。无论男女、尊卑,随身配有悦巾是必不可少的,悦巾与我们的肌肤相亲,沾有我们的体液,我们将悦巾作为身体的一部分。具有清洁功能的帨巾在日常生活中起到了洁身与洁物的作用,原为男女均需佩戴的悦巾,由于女性主内形象的确立,悦巾成为主持家内形象的代名词,手帕等物也成为女性的专属之物。由清洁到自洁,由身体到性别,由礼仪的外在表现到女性污名化的象征,悦巾首先被性别化,随后被污名化,跟随女性经历了一场重要的蜕变。在传统社会,身体与情感都是隐蔽的,但我们的情感仍需表达,于是巾帕承载了传统社会男女对情感的渴望与寄托,是身体与心理的外化之物。
Shawl and towel has been used from Xia,Shang and Zhou Dynasties.With the development of society and people’s material needs,it has slowly evolved into hand towels,handkerchief,sweat towels,and baggage.Under the guidance of the thought of Trickle and Cleansing,the towel plays the role of‘Cleansing is the greatest respect’.Complementarily,in the royal and scholars’etiquette,the towel retains its original name,which is one of the retro expressions of etiquette.The upper etiquette and society of the traditional society represents a highly clean and elegant culture.It is a symbol of status and conduct,and it is also a manifestation of the order of superiority and inferiority.Whether in the upper aristocracy etiquette,or folk customs,the towel is indispensable.In civil society,which is also polite and vulgar,the towel’s role is more return to the clean standard than in the upper class.Regardless of men and women,high and low,it is necessary to have a towel with us.The towel is blind to our skin and has our body fluids.We use the towel as a part of the body.The towel with a clean function plays a role in body-cleanliness and objects-cleanliness in daily life.It was originally a scarf worn by men and women,but due to the establishment of the image of the female master,the towel became synonymous with the image of the female host.Handkerchief and other things have also became exclusive to women.From cleanliness to self-purification,and the body to gender,and the appearance of etiquette to the symbol of female stigmatization,the towel was been genderfirstly and then stigmatized,a major transformation has been accomplished with women.In the traditional society,the body and emotions are hidden,but our emotions still need to be expressed.Therefore,the towel carry the desire and sustenance of the emotions of men and women.It is an externalization of the body and mind.
作者
王春花
Wang Chunhua(Heze University)
出处
《中国社会历史评论》
2020年第1期-,共11页
Chinese Social History Review
关键词
悦与巾
礼仪
身体
性别
Shawl and Towel
Etiquette
Body
Sexuality
