With the launch of altimeter,much effort has been made to develop algorithms on the wind speed and the wave period.By using a large data set of collocated altimeter and buoy measurements,the typical wind speed and wav...With the launch of altimeter,much effort has been made to develop algorithms on the wind speed and the wave period.By using a large data set of collocated altimeter and buoy measurements,the typical wind speed and wave period algorithms are validated.Based on theoretical argument and the concept of wave age,a semi-empirical algorithm for the wave period is also proposed,which has the wave-period dimension,and explicitly demonstrates the relationships between the wave period and the other variables.It is found that Ku and C band data should be applied simultaneously in order to improve either wind speed or wave period algorithms.The dual-band algorithms proposed by Chen et al.(2002) for the wind speed and Quilfen et al.(2004) for the wave period perform best in terms of a root mean square error in the practical applications.展开更多
The existence of three well-defined tongue-shaped zones of swell dominance,termed as 'swell pools',in the Pacific,the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans,was reported by Chen et al.(2002)using satellite data.In thi...The existence of three well-defined tongue-shaped zones of swell dominance,termed as 'swell pools',in the Pacific,the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans,was reported by Chen et al.(2002)using satellite data.In this paper,the ECMWF Re-analyses wind wave data,including wind speed,significant wave height,averaged wave period and direction,are applied to verify the existence of these swell pools.The swell indices calculated from wave height,wave age and correlation coefficient are used to identify swell events.The wave age swell index can be more appropriately related to physical processes compared to the other two swell indices.Based on the ECMWF data the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans are confirmed,but the expected swell pool in the Indian Ocean is not pronounced.The seasonal variations of global and hemispherical swell indices are investigated,and the argument that swells in the pools seemed to originate mostly from the winter hemisphere is supported by the seasonal variation of the averaged wave direction.The northward bending of the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans in summer is not revealed by the ECMWF data.The swell pool in the Indian Ocean and the summer northward bending of the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlan-tic Oceans need to be further verified by other datasets.展开更多
Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced a...Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.展开更多
Based on observations from buoys, it is found that the wave age is well correlated with the nondimensional wave height, and this correlation is best described by a 3/5-power law. This similarity law is valid in the ca...Based on observations from buoys, it is found that the wave age is well correlated with the nondimensional wave height, and this correlation is best described by a 3/5-power law. This similarity law is valid in the cases of wind waves as well as swells under natural sea states. On the basis of the 3/5-power law combined with the well-known 3/2-power law I it is shown that the wave-induced wind stress increases rapidly with wave age, indicating that the traditional observations or analytic techniques have only given the turbulent Reynolds stress induced by short wind waves, but excluded the long-wave-induced wind stress. The latter constitutes a small fraction to the total wind stress when the wave age is smaller than 1.0. The increase of sea-surface roughness with wave age can be attributed to wave breaking.展开更多
The model for whitecap coverage and wave breaking probability are parameterized by the dimensionless wind fetch X^-. This paper aims at replacing X^- with other parameters such as the average wave period T^-, wind spe...The model for whitecap coverage and wave breaking probability are parameterized by the dimensionless wind fetch X^-. This paper aims at replacing X^- with other parameters such as the average wave period T^-, wind speed U10 or wave age ξ in order to improve the suitability and convenience of the model for application. First, W and B are expressed in terms of T^- and U10, which are relatively easy to measure in the field. Further, U10 is replaced with the friction velocity U. by use of the empirical relationship. As wave age has been widely used to parameterize spectral models of ocean waves and air-sea fluxes, W and B are then expressed as a simple function of wave age, respectively. The new forms of the model obtained are W= 1 - Ф（3.02ξ0＂76） and B = exp（ - 4.54ξ^1.52） . The two forms are mere applicable in pracrice, since ξ is relatively easy to measure or determine from wave and wind records. Comparisons between these expressions and data collected from published literature are made and agreement is fairly good.展开更多
A spatial array of wave gauges installed on an observatoion platform has been designed and arranged to measure the local features of winter monsoon directional waves off Taishi coast of Taiwan. A new method, named the...A spatial array of wave gauges installed on an observatoion platform has been designed and arranged to measure the local features of winter monsoon directional waves off Taishi coast of Taiwan. A new method, named the Bayesian Parameter Estimation Method(BPEM), is developed and adopted to determine the main direction and the directional spreading parameter of directional spectra. ne BPEM could be considered as a regression analysis to find the maximum joint probability of parameters, which best approximates the observed data from the Bayesian viewpoint. The result of the analysis of field wave data demonstrates the highly dependency of the characteristics of normalized directional spreading on the wave age. The Mitsuyasu type empirical formula of directional spectrum is therefore modified to be representative of monsoon wave field. Moreover, it is suggested that S-max could be expressed as a function of wave steepness. The values of S-max decrease with increasing steepness. Finally, a local directional spreading model, which is simple to be utilized in engineering practice, is proposed.展开更多
Callaghan and White(2009) put forward the automated whitecap extraction(AWE) technique to determine the whitecap coverage(W). An improved AWE was used to analyze images collected in the South China Sea during 2012 and...Callaghan and White(2009) put forward the automated whitecap extraction(AWE) technique to determine the whitecap coverage(W). An improved AWE was used to analyze images collected in the South China Sea during 2012 and 2013 and in western Pacific during 2015 to determine W. The influences of meteorological and oceanographic factors on whitecap coverage were investigated in this study. It is found that W increases with wind speed. Scale factor and exponent of parameterization for W(U10) vary greatly in different models. Overall, there is a larger scatter of W at low wind speed than at high wind speed. W decreases with the increasing of wave age. Compared with wind speed, the scatter of W is smaller with wave age, which means the impact of wave age on the whitecap coverage is more robust under various environmental conditions. There is no significant dependence on SST and whitecap coverage seems to weakly decrease with SST. W decreases with the atmospheric stability. Relationship between W and wind speed change when swells are dominant. Swell can suppress wave breaking and decrease W. The effect is independent of the deflection angle between wind wave and swell.展开更多
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 41076007 and 40676014the National Basic Research Program of China under contract No. 2009CB421201the Program of Introducing Talents of Discipline to Universities of China under contract No. B07036
文摘With the launch of altimeter,much effort has been made to develop algorithms on the wind speed and the wave period.By using a large data set of collocated altimeter and buoy measurements,the typical wind speed and wave period algorithms are validated.Based on theoretical argument and the concept of wave age,a semi-empirical algorithm for the wave period is also proposed,which has the wave-period dimension,and explicitly demonstrates the relationships between the wave period and the other variables.It is found that Ku and C band data should be applied simultaneously in order to improve either wind speed or wave period algorithms.The dual-band algorithms proposed by Chen et al.(2002) for the wind speed and Quilfen et al.(2004) for the wave period perform best in terms of a root mean square error in the practical applications.
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Nos. 40830959 and 40921004)the Ministry of Science and Technology of China (No. 2011BAC03B01)
文摘The existence of three well-defined tongue-shaped zones of swell dominance,termed as 'swell pools',in the Pacific,the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans,was reported by Chen et al.(2002)using satellite data.In this paper,the ECMWF Re-analyses wind wave data,including wind speed,significant wave height,averaged wave period and direction,are applied to verify the existence of these swell pools.The swell indices calculated from wave height,wave age and correlation coefficient are used to identify swell events.The wave age swell index can be more appropriately related to physical processes compared to the other two swell indices.Based on the ECMWF data the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans are confirmed,but the expected swell pool in the Indian Ocean is not pronounced.The seasonal variations of global and hemispherical swell indices are investigated,and the argument that swells in the pools seemed to originate mostly from the winter hemisphere is supported by the seasonal variation of the averaged wave direction.The northward bending of the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans in summer is not revealed by the ECMWF data.The swell pool in the Indian Ocean and the summer northward bending of the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlan-tic Oceans need to be further verified by other datasets.
基金The National Basic Research Program of China under contract Nos 2009CB421201 and 2005CB422301the National NaturalScience Foundation of China under contract Nos 41076007,40676014,40490263 and 40830959
文摘Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.
基金This project is supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.40276005), Natural Sci-ence Foundaton of Shandong Province (No.Z2002E01)and 863 Project(No.2001AA630307,2002AA639150)
文摘Based on observations from buoys, it is found that the wave age is well correlated with the nondimensional wave height, and this correlation is best described by a 3/5-power law. This similarity law is valid in the cases of wind waves as well as swells under natural sea states. On the basis of the 3/5-power law combined with the well-known 3/2-power law I it is shown that the wave-induced wind stress increases rapidly with wave age, indicating that the traditional observations or analytic techniques have only given the turbulent Reynolds stress induced by short wind waves, but excluded the long-wave-induced wind stress. The latter constitutes a small fraction to the total wind stress when the wave age is smaller than 1.0. The increase of sea-surface roughness with wave age can be attributed to wave breaking.
基金This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.50479028)
文摘The model for whitecap coverage and wave breaking probability are parameterized by the dimensionless wind fetch X^-. This paper aims at replacing X^- with other parameters such as the average wave period T^-, wind speed U10 or wave age ξ in order to improve the suitability and convenience of the model for application. First, W and B are expressed in terms of T^- and U10, which are relatively easy to measure in the field. Further, U10 is replaced with the friction velocity U. by use of the empirical relationship. As wave age has been widely used to parameterize spectral models of ocean waves and air-sea fluxes, W and B are then expressed as a simple function of wave age, respectively. The new forms of the model obtained are W= 1 - Ф（3.02ξ0＂76） and B = exp（ - 4.54ξ^1.52） . The two forms are mere applicable in pracrice, since ξ is relatively easy to measure or determine from wave and wind records. Comparisons between these expressions and data collected from published literature are made and agreement is fairly good.
文摘A spatial array of wave gauges installed on an observatoion platform has been designed and arranged to measure the local features of winter monsoon directional waves off Taishi coast of Taiwan. A new method, named the Bayesian Parameter Estimation Method(BPEM), is developed and adopted to determine the main direction and the directional spreading parameter of directional spectra. ne BPEM could be considered as a regression analysis to find the maximum joint probability of parameters, which best approximates the observed data from the Bayesian viewpoint. The result of the analysis of field wave data demonstrates the highly dependency of the characteristics of normalized directional spreading on the wave age. The Mitsuyasu type empirical formula of directional spectrum is therefore modified to be representative of monsoon wave field. Moreover, it is suggested that S-max could be expressed as a function of wave steepness. The values of S-max decrease with increasing steepness. Finally, a local directional spreading model, which is simple to be utilized in engineering practice, is proposed.
基金supported by the Public Science and Technology Research Funds Projects of Ocean (No. 201505007)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Nos. 41276015, 41076007)the Joint Project for National Oceanographic Center by the NSFC and Shandong Government (No. U1406402)
文摘Callaghan and White(2009) put forward the automated whitecap extraction(AWE) technique to determine the whitecap coverage(W). An improved AWE was used to analyze images collected in the South China Sea during 2012 and 2013 and in western Pacific during 2015 to determine W. The influences of meteorological and oceanographic factors on whitecap coverage were investigated in this study. It is found that W increases with wind speed. Scale factor and exponent of parameterization for W(U10) vary greatly in different models. Overall, there is a larger scatter of W at low wind speed than at high wind speed. W decreases with the increasing of wave age. Compared with wind speed, the scatter of W is smaller with wave age, which means the impact of wave age on the whitecap coverage is more robust under various environmental conditions. There is no significant dependence on SST and whitecap coverage seems to weakly decrease with SST. W decreases with the atmospheric stability. Relationship between W and wind speed change when swells are dominant. Swell can suppress wave breaking and decrease W. The effect is independent of the deflection angle between wind wave and swell.
