The article solves the problem of surface gravitational waves using the theory of tangential discontinuity between media: air-water. Using the improved equation of mass continuity and taking into account the atmospher...The article solves the problem of surface gravitational waves using the theory of tangential discontinuity between media: air-water. Using the improved equation of mass continuity and taking into account the atmosphere inhomogeneity in the gravitational field of the Earth, it is shown that during wave processes, these two media mutually influence each other, which explains the reason for the formation of a stormy condition over the ocean and the drop in atmospheric pressure before the storm. The mechanism of the formation of the “killer wave” has been established and thus the “greatest mystery of nature” has been solved. The scale of wind and tsunami wavelengths has been established.展开更多
An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for ...An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for maintaining the mass balance of these equations. The resistance force caused by vegetation was taken into account as a source term in the momentum equation. The Harten–Lax–van Leer(HLL) approximate Riemann solver was applied to evaluate the interface fluxes for tracing the wet/dry transition boundary. This proposed model was used to simulate solitary wave run-up and long-periodic wave propagation on a sloping beach. The calibration process suitably compared the calculated results with the measured data. The tsunami waves were also simulated to discuss the water depth, tsunami force, as well as the current speed in absence of and in presence of forest domain. The results indicated that forest growth at the beach reduced wave energy loss caused by tsunamis. A series of sensitivity analyses were conducted with respect to variable parameters(such as vegetation densities, wave heights, wave periods, bed resistance, and beach slopes) to identify important influences on mitigating tsunami damage on coastal forest beach.展开更多
The problem of generation and propagation of tsunami waves is mainly focused on plane beach, there are very few analytical works where wave generation is considered on non-uniformly sloping beach and as a result those...The problem of generation and propagation of tsunami waves is mainly focused on plane beach, there are very few analytical works where wave generation is considered on non-uniformly sloping beach and as a result those works might have failed to capture important facts which are influenced by bottom-slope of the beach. Some researchers provided solution to the forced long linear waves but on a beach with uniform slope while the importance of including variable bottom topography is mentioned by few researchers but they also stayed away from considering continuous variability of the ocean bed as they were studying runup problem. This paper analyzes tsunami waves which are generated by instantaneous bottom dislocation on a ocean floor with variable slope of the form y=-qxr, q > 0, r > 0. Attempts are made to find analytical solution of the problem and along the way tsunami forerunners are identified while investigating the short time wave behavior, not found even with constant slope beaches. In our study a rather significant phenomenon with regard to energy transmission to the waves at steady-state are observed with some notable features.展开更多
文摘The article solves the problem of surface gravitational waves using the theory of tangential discontinuity between media: air-water. Using the improved equation of mass continuity and taking into account the atmosphere inhomogeneity in the gravitational field of the Earth, it is shown that during wave processes, these two media mutually influence each other, which explains the reason for the formation of a stormy condition over the ocean and the drop in atmospheric pressure before the storm. The mechanism of the formation of the “killer wave” has been established and thus the “greatest mystery of nature” has been solved. The scale of wind and tsunami wavelengths has been established.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.51879028the National Key R&D Program of China under contract No.2019YFC1407704the Fund of Liaoning Marine Fishery Department under contract No.201725
文摘An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for maintaining the mass balance of these equations. The resistance force caused by vegetation was taken into account as a source term in the momentum equation. The Harten–Lax–van Leer(HLL) approximate Riemann solver was applied to evaluate the interface fluxes for tracing the wet/dry transition boundary. This proposed model was used to simulate solitary wave run-up and long-periodic wave propagation on a sloping beach. The calibration process suitably compared the calculated results with the measured data. The tsunami waves were also simulated to discuss the water depth, tsunami force, as well as the current speed in absence of and in presence of forest domain. The results indicated that forest growth at the beach reduced wave energy loss caused by tsunamis. A series of sensitivity analyses were conducted with respect to variable parameters(such as vegetation densities, wave heights, wave periods, bed resistance, and beach slopes) to identify important influences on mitigating tsunami damage on coastal forest beach.
文摘The problem of generation and propagation of tsunami waves is mainly focused on plane beach, there are very few analytical works where wave generation is considered on non-uniformly sloping beach and as a result those works might have failed to capture important facts which are influenced by bottom-slope of the beach. Some researchers provided solution to the forced long linear waves but on a beach with uniform slope while the importance of including variable bottom topography is mentioned by few researchers but they also stayed away from considering continuous variability of the ocean bed as they were studying runup problem. This paper analyzes tsunami waves which are generated by instantaneous bottom dislocation on a ocean floor with variable slope of the form y=-qxr, q > 0, r > 0. Attempts are made to find analytical solution of the problem and along the way tsunami forerunners are identified while investigating the short time wave behavior, not found even with constant slope beaches. In our study a rather significant phenomenon with regard to energy transmission to the waves at steady-state are observed with some notable features.
