A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF...A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson el al., 1992), with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory (James, 1974) is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in most respects when compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983) except in modeling the mean free surface very close to the mean shoreline.展开更多
基金National Natural Science Foundation of China.(No.19732004)
文摘A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson el al., 1992), with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory (James, 1974) is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in most respects when compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983) except in modeling the mean free surface very close to the mean shoreline.
