The southern coast of the Gulf of Maine in the United States is prone to flooding caused by nor＇easters. A state-of-the-art fully-coupled model, the Simulating WAves Nearshore （SWAN） model with unstructured grids a...The southern coast of the Gulf of Maine in the United States is prone to flooding caused by nor＇easters. A state-of-the-art fully-coupled model, the Simulating WAves Nearshore （SWAN） model with unstructured grids and the ADvanced CIRCulation （ADCIRC） model, was used to study the hydrodynamic response in the Gulf of Maine during the Patriot＇s Day storm of 2007, a notable example of nor＇easters in this area. The model predictions agree well with the observed tide-surges and waves during this storm event. Waves and circulation in the Gulf of Maine were analyzed. The Georges Bank plays an important role in dissipating wave energy through the bottom friction when waves propagate over the bank from offshore to the inner gulf due to its shallow bathymetry. Wave energy dissipation results in decreasing significant wave height （SWH） in the cross-bank direction and wave radiation stress gradient, which in turn induces changes in currents. While the tidal currents are dominant over the Georges Bank and in the Bay of Fundy, the residual currents generated by the meteorological forcing and waves are significant over the Georges Bank and in the coastal area and can reach 0.3 m/s and 0.2 m/s, respectively. In the vicinity of the coast, the longshore current generated by the surface wind stress and wave radiation stress acting parallel to the coastline is inversely proportional to the water depth and will eventually be limited by the bottom friction. The storm surge level reaches 0.8 m along the western periphery of the Gulf of Maine while the wave set-up due to radiation stress variation reaches 0.2 m. Therefore, it is significant to coastal flooding.展开更多
In conjunction with synchronous remotely sensed winds and sea surface temperature （SST）, the spatiotemporal features of the Zhe-Min coastal current （ZMCC）, especially responses of the ZMCC adjacent to Pingtan Isla...In conjunction with synchronous remotely sensed winds and sea surface temperature （SST）, the spatiotemporal features of the Zhe-Min coastal current （ZMCC）, especially responses of the ZMCC adjacent to Pingtan Island （PT） to the wintertime mon- soon relaxation in 2006 and corresponding mechanism are investigated based on the field observations. In situ data are ac- quired from Conductivity-Temperature-Depth （CTD） cruise and Bottom-Mounted Moorings （BMM）, which are conducted during a comprehensive survey for the Chinese Offshore Investigation and Assessment Project in winter 2006. It is revealed that the ZMCC is well mixed vertically in winter 2006. The ZMCC （〈14℃） recedes during the relaxation of the wintertime monsoon and is accompanied by the enhanced northward shift of the warm, saline Taiwan Strait Mixed Water （TSMW, higher than 14~C and is constituted by the Taiwan Strait Warm Water and the Kuroshio Branch Water）. And greatly enhanced south- ward intrusion of the ZMCC can be detected when the wintertime monsoon restores. Correspondingly, the thermal interface bounded by the ZMCC and the TSMW moves in the northwest/southeast direction, leading to periodic warm/cold reversals of the near-seabed temperature adjacent to the PT. By EOF （Empirical Orthogonal Function） analysis of the large-scale wind fields and wavelet power spectrum analysis of the water level, ocean current and the near-seabed temperature, responses of the ZMCC off the PT to wintertime monsoon relaxation are suggested to be attributed mainly to the southward propagating coast- ally trapped waves triggered by the impeding atmospheric fronts. As a result, ocean current and near-seabed temperature demonstrate significant quasi-5 d and quasi-10 d subtidal oscillations. By contrast, the onshore/offshore water accumulation resulted from Ekman advection driven by the local winds has minor contributions.展开更多
The interaction between solid structures and free-surface flows is investigated in this study. A Smoothed Particle Hy- drodynamics （SPH） model is used in the investigation and is verified against analytical solution...The interaction between solid structures and free-surface flows is investigated in this study. A Smoothed Particle Hy- drodynamics （SPH） model is used in the investigation and is verified against analytical solutions and experimental obser- vations. The main aim is to examine the effectiveness of a tsunami-resistant house design by predicting the wave loads on it. To achieve this, the solitary wave generation and ran-up are studied first. The solitary wave is generated by allowing a heavily weighted block to penetrate into a tank of water at one end, and the near-shore seabed is modelled by an inclined section with a constant slope. Then, the SPH model is applied to simulate the three-dimensional flows around different types of houses under the action of a solitary wave. It has been found that the tsunami-resistant house design reduces the impact force by a factor of three.展开更多
A linear hybrid model of Mild Slope Equation （MSE） and Boundary Element Method （BEM） is developed to study the wave propagation around floating structures in coastal zones. Both the wave refraction under the influ...A linear hybrid model of Mild Slope Equation （MSE） and Boundary Element Method （BEM） is developed to study the wave propagation around floating structures in coastal zones. Both the wave refraction under the influence of topography and the wave diffraction by floating structures are considered. Hence, the model provides wave properties around the coastal floating structures of arbitrary shape but also the wave forces on and the hydrodynamic characteristics of the structures. Different approaches are compared to demonstrate the validity of the present hybrid model. Several numerical tests are carried out for the cases of pontoons under different circumstances. The results show that the influence of topography on the hydrodynamic characteristics of floating structures in coastal regions is important and must not be ignored in the most wave period range with practical interests.展开更多
Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical ...Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical scheme for sediment transport in coastal waves and wave-induced currents.In the scheme,the sand transport model was implemented with wave refraction-diffraction model and near-shore current model.Coastal water wave was simulated by using the parabolic mild-slope equation in which wave refraction,diffraction and breaking effects are considered.Wave-induced current was simulated by using the nonlinear shallow water equations in which wave provides radiation stresses for driving current.Then,sediment transport in waves and wave-induced currents was simulated by using the two-dimensional suspended sediment transport equations for suspended sediment and the bed-load transport equation for bed load.The numerical scheme was validated by experiment results from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the US Army Corps of Engineer Research and Development Center in Vicksburg.The numerical results showed that the present scheme is an effective tool for modeling coastal sediment transport in waves and near-shore currents.展开更多
The persistence and habitability of coral reef islands in future extreme oceanographic conditions has received increasing attention in the recent decade,concerning that the sea level rise(SLR)and more frequent and int...The persistence and habitability of coral reef islands in future extreme oceanographic conditions has received increasing attention in the recent decade,concerning that the sea level rise(SLR)and more frequent and intense storms in the context of global climate change are expected to destabilize those islands.Here,we conduct a set of wave-flume laboratory experiments focusing on the morphodynamic change of reef islands to varying ocean forcing conditions(wave height and SLR).Subsequently,a phase-resolving XBeach numerical model is adopted to simulate the monochromatic wave process and its associated sediment dynamics.The adopted model is also firstly validated by laboratory experimental results as reported in this study.It is then used to examine the impacts of island morphological factors(island width,island height,island location and island side slope)on the island migration.The combined laboratory/physical and numerical experiment outputs suggest that reef islands can accrete vertically in response to the sea level rise and the increased storminess.展开更多
Study of beach morphology has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects. Because of the existence of two important coastal areas located in the north and south parts of the Iran, i...Study of beach morphology has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects. Because of the existence of two important coastal areas located in the north and south parts of the Iran, in the present study an analysis of the coastal zone behaviour is made. Bed level elevations are measured and compared with the theoretical equilibrium profile. It is shown that the behaviour of the coastal zone in the region is consistent with the Dean （1991） equilibrium profile. In the next stage, following extensive investigations, the bed level changes due to arise in sea level at different locations in the surf zone are estimated. The mechanism of beach re-treatment due to a rise in sea level is considered based on the simplified model of Dean （1991） in which the mass balance of the sediments is taken into account. Comparison of the equilibrium profiles for different cases of sea level rise, clearly shows that because of the sediment transport induced by the fluctuation of the water level, the beach profile in the surf zone changes accordingly resulting in an erosion in the inner region of the surf zone and an accumulation of sediments towards the offshore.展开更多
基金supported by the project funded by the Maine Sea Grant and National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration(Grant No.NA10OAR4170072)the Ensemble Estimation of Flood Risk in a Changing Climate(EFRa CC)project funded by the British Council under its Global Innovation Initiative
文摘The southern coast of the Gulf of Maine in the United States is prone to flooding caused by nor＇easters. A state-of-the-art fully-coupled model, the Simulating WAves Nearshore （SWAN） model with unstructured grids and the ADvanced CIRCulation （ADCIRC） model, was used to study the hydrodynamic response in the Gulf of Maine during the Patriot＇s Day storm of 2007, a notable example of nor＇easters in this area. The model predictions agree well with the observed tide-surges and waves during this storm event. Waves and circulation in the Gulf of Maine were analyzed. The Georges Bank plays an important role in dissipating wave energy through the bottom friction when waves propagate over the bank from offshore to the inner gulf due to its shallow bathymetry. Wave energy dissipation results in decreasing significant wave height （SWH） in the cross-bank direction and wave radiation stress gradient, which in turn induces changes in currents. While the tidal currents are dominant over the Georges Bank and in the Bay of Fundy, the residual currents generated by the meteorological forcing and waves are significant over the Georges Bank and in the coastal area and can reach 0.3 m/s and 0.2 m/s, respectively. In the vicinity of the coast, the longshore current generated by the surface wind stress and wave radiation stress acting parallel to the coastline is inversely proportional to the water depth and will eventually be limited by the bottom friction. The storm surge level reaches 0.8 m along the western periphery of the Gulf of Maine while the wave set-up due to radiation stress variation reaches 0.2 m. Therefore, it is significant to coastal flooding.
基金supported by National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.41176031 and 40806013)Chinese Offshore Physical Oceanography and Marine Meteorology Investigation and Assessment Project(Grant No.908-ZC-I-01)National Basic Research Program of China(Grant No:.2011CB403504).
文摘In conjunction with synchronous remotely sensed winds and sea surface temperature （SST）, the spatiotemporal features of the Zhe-Min coastal current （ZMCC）, especially responses of the ZMCC adjacent to Pingtan Island （PT） to the wintertime mon- soon relaxation in 2006 and corresponding mechanism are investigated based on the field observations. In situ data are ac- quired from Conductivity-Temperature-Depth （CTD） cruise and Bottom-Mounted Moorings （BMM）, which are conducted during a comprehensive survey for the Chinese Offshore Investigation and Assessment Project in winter 2006. It is revealed that the ZMCC is well mixed vertically in winter 2006. The ZMCC （〈14℃） recedes during the relaxation of the wintertime monsoon and is accompanied by the enhanced northward shift of the warm, saline Taiwan Strait Mixed Water （TSMW, higher than 14~C and is constituted by the Taiwan Strait Warm Water and the Kuroshio Branch Water）. And greatly enhanced south- ward intrusion of the ZMCC can be detected when the wintertime monsoon restores. Correspondingly, the thermal interface bounded by the ZMCC and the TSMW moves in the northwest/southeast direction, leading to periodic warm/cold reversals of the near-seabed temperature adjacent to the PT. By EOF （Empirical Orthogonal Function） analysis of the large-scale wind fields and wavelet power spectrum analysis of the water level, ocean current and the near-seabed temperature, responses of the ZMCC off the PT to wintertime monsoon relaxation are suggested to be attributed mainly to the southward propagating coast- ally trapped waves triggered by the impeding atmospheric fronts. As a result, ocean current and near-seabed temperature demonstrate significant quasi-5 d and quasi-10 d subtidal oscillations. By contrast, the onshore/offshore water accumulation resulted from Ekman advection driven by the local winds has minor contributions.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No. 50779014)
文摘The interaction between solid structures and free-surface flows is investigated in this study. A Smoothed Particle Hy- drodynamics （SPH） model is used in the investigation and is verified against analytical solutions and experimental obser- vations. The main aim is to examine the effectiveness of a tsunami-resistant house design by predicting the wave loads on it. To achieve this, the solitary wave generation and ran-up are studied first. The solitary wave is generated by allowing a heavily weighted block to penetrate into a tank of water at one end, and the near-shore seabed is modelled by an inclined section with a constant slope. Then, the SPH model is applied to simulate the three-dimensional flows around different types of houses under the action of a solitary wave. It has been found that the tsunami-resistant house design reduces the impact force by a factor of three.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No: 50379026)
文摘A linear hybrid model of Mild Slope Equation （MSE） and Boundary Element Method （BEM） is developed to study the wave propagation around floating structures in coastal zones. Both the wave refraction under the influence of topography and the wave diffraction by floating structures are considered. Hence, the model provides wave properties around the coastal floating structures of arbitrary shape but also the wave forces on and the hydrodynamic characteristics of the structures. Different approaches are compared to demonstrate the validity of the present hybrid model. Several numerical tests are carried out for the cases of pontoons under different circumstances. The results show that the influence of topography on the hydrodynamic characteristics of floating structures in coastal regions is important and must not be ignored in the most wave period range with practical interests.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51579036 and 51579030the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities of China under contract No.DUT14YQ10
文摘Prediction of coastal sediment transport is of particularly importance for analyzing coast erosion accurately and solving the corresponding coast protection engineering problems.The present study provided a numerical scheme for sediment transport in coastal waves and wave-induced currents.In the scheme,the sand transport model was implemented with wave refraction-diffraction model and near-shore current model.Coastal water wave was simulated by using the parabolic mild-slope equation in which wave refraction,diffraction and breaking effects are considered.Wave-induced current was simulated by using the nonlinear shallow water equations in which wave provides radiation stresses for driving current.Then,sediment transport in waves and wave-induced currents was simulated by using the two-dimensional suspended sediment transport equations for suspended sediment and the bed-load transport equation for bed load.The numerical scheme was validated by experiment results from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the US Army Corps of Engineer Research and Development Center in Vicksburg.The numerical results showed that the present scheme is an effective tool for modeling coastal sediment transport in waves and near-shore currents.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51979013 and 51909013the National Key Research and Development Program of China under contract Nos 2021YFC3100502 and 2021YFB2601105the Hainan Provincial Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.421QN0978.
文摘The persistence and habitability of coral reef islands in future extreme oceanographic conditions has received increasing attention in the recent decade,concerning that the sea level rise(SLR)and more frequent and intense storms in the context of global climate change are expected to destabilize those islands.Here,we conduct a set of wave-flume laboratory experiments focusing on the morphodynamic change of reef islands to varying ocean forcing conditions(wave height and SLR).Subsequently,a phase-resolving XBeach numerical model is adopted to simulate the monochromatic wave process and its associated sediment dynamics.The adopted model is also firstly validated by laboratory experimental results as reported in this study.It is then used to examine the impacts of island morphological factors(island width,island height,island location and island side slope)on the island migration.The combined laboratory/physical and numerical experiment outputs suggest that reef islands can accrete vertically in response to the sea level rise and the increased storminess.
文摘Study of beach morphology has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects. Because of the existence of two important coastal areas located in the north and south parts of the Iran, in the present study an analysis of the coastal zone behaviour is made. Bed level elevations are measured and compared with the theoretical equilibrium profile. It is shown that the behaviour of the coastal zone in the region is consistent with the Dean （1991） equilibrium profile. In the next stage, following extensive investigations, the bed level changes due to arise in sea level at different locations in the surf zone are estimated. The mechanism of beach re-treatment due to a rise in sea level is considered based on the simplified model of Dean （1991） in which the mass balance of the sediments is taken into account. Comparison of the equilibrium profiles for different cases of sea level rise, clearly shows that because of the sediment transport induced by the fluctuation of the water level, the beach profile in the surf zone changes accordingly resulting in an erosion in the inner region of the surf zone and an accumulation of sediments towards the offshore.
