An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are...An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distribution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced by wave directionality and that the breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.展开更多
A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor- Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investi- gate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northe...A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor- Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investi- gate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northern South China Sea. The turbulent kinetic ener- gy released through wave breaking was incorporated into the model as a source of energy at the ocean surface, and the influence of the breaking waves on the mixed layer was studied. The numerical simulations show that the simulated SST is overestimated in summer without the breaking waves. However, the cooler SST is simulated when the effect of the breaking waves is considered, the corre- sponding discrepancy with the observed data decreases up to 20% and the MLD calculated averagely deepens 3.8 m. Owing to the wave-enhanced turbulence mixing in the summertime, the stratification at the bottom of the mixed layer was modified and the tempera- ture gradient spread throughout the whole thermocline compared with the concentrated distribution without wave breaking.展开更多
A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed...A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.展开更多
A three-dimensional nearshore circulation model was developed by coupling CH3D, a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model and REF/DIF, a nearshore wave transformation model. The model solves the three-dimensional wave-av...A three-dimensional nearshore circulation model was developed by coupling CH3D, a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model and REF/DIF, a nearshore wave transformation model. The model solves the three-dimensional wave-averaged equations of motion. Wave-induced effects on circulation were introduced in the form of radiation stresses, wave-induced mass transport, wave-induced enhancement of bottom friction and wave-induced turbulent mixing. Effects of breaking waves were considered following Svendsen (1984a and 1984b) and Stive and Wind (1986). The model was successfully tested against the analytical solution of longshore currents by Longuet and Higgins (1970). The model successfully simulated the undertow as observed in a laboratory experiment by Stive and Wind (1982). In addition, the model was applied to a physical model by Mory and Hamm (1997) and successfully reproduced the eddy behind a detached breakwater as well as the longshore current on the open beach and the contiguous eddy in the open area of the wave tank. While the qualitative agreement between model results and experimental observations was very good, the quantitative agreement needs to be further improved. Albeit difficult to explain every discrepancy between the model results and observations, in general, sources of errors are attributed to the lack of understanding and comprehensive description of following processes: (1)the horizontal and vertical distribution of radiation stress, especially for breaking waves;(2)the detailed structure of turbulence;(3)Wave-current interaction (not included at this moment); and (4)the wave-current boundary layer and the resulting bottom shear stress.展开更多
A method for the calculation of total horizontal wave forces by irregular breaking waves on vertical wall was developed by authors, which was based on physical model test, dimensionless analysis and assessment of real...A method for the calculation of total horizontal wave forces by irregular breaking waves on vertical wall was developed by authors, which was based on physical model test, dimensionless analysis and assessment of real construction. The methods for the determination of pressure distribution of horizontal forces on vertical wall as well as u-plift forces on the bottom of wall are also given. The comparison between calculated results by this method and samples of real construction are very well.展开更多
As an important hydrodynamic phenomenon in the nearshore zone, the cross-shore surf beat is numerically studied in this paper with a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as wel...As an important hydrodynamic phenomenon in the nearshore zone, the cross-shore surf beat is numerically studied in this paper with a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. Compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics. Wave breaking and run-up in the swash zone are included in the numerical model. Mutual interactions between short waves and long waves are inherent in the model. The numerical study of long waves is based on bichromatic wave groups with a wide range of mean frequencies, group frequencies and modulation rates. The cross-shore variation in the amplitudes of short waves and long waves is investigated. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and good agreement is found.展开更多
When irregular waves attack a vertical wall, standing waves and breaking (or broken) waves will occur in front of the wall. The statistic characteristics of standing wave forces on vertical wall are the same as that o...When irregular waves attack a vertical wall, standing waves and breaking (or broken) waves will occur in front of the wall. The statistic characteristics of standing wave forces on vertical wall are the same as that of incident waves. But for breaking or broken waves, only large waves break, so the statistic characteristics of breaking wave forces are different to that of standing waves or incident waves. Following a series model test of irregular breaking waves on vertical wall the statistic characterisitics of breaking wave fo.rces were analyzed in this paper. It is found by authors that Weibul distribution may be used to express the statistic distribution of breaking wave forces acting on vertical wall. msed on the analysis of model test data, it is indicated in this paper that the shape parameter m in Weibul distribution is a function of and , in which H is the wave height, d1 is the water depth at the toe of vertical wall and d is the water depth in front of the whole structure; and the theoretical value of scale parameter a can be determined from shape parameter m.展开更多
基金This research was partially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 50379002),the Korea Research Council of Public Science and Technology (Principal R&D Program) and Korea Ministry of Science and Technology (International Collaboration Research Program)
文摘An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distribution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced by wave directionality and that the breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.
基金supported by the cooperative project of the Chinese Academy of Sciencesthe China National Offshore Oil Corporation+1 种基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 40376008 and 40476008Open Projects of the Key Laboratory of Physical Oceanography of Ministry of Education of China under contract No.200310.
文摘A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor- Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investi- gate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northern South China Sea. The turbulent kinetic ener- gy released through wave breaking was incorporated into the model as a source of energy at the ocean surface, and the influence of the breaking waves on the mixed layer was studied. The numerical simulations show that the simulated SST is overestimated in summer without the breaking waves. However, the cooler SST is simulated when the effect of the breaking waves is considered, the corre- sponding discrepancy with the observed data decreases up to 20% and the MLD calculated averagely deepens 3.8 m. Owing to the wave-enhanced turbulence mixing in the summertime, the stratification at the bottom of the mixed layer was modified and the tempera- ture gradient spread throughout the whole thermocline compared with the concentrated distribution without wave breaking.
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos .50479053 and10672034)the Programfor Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teamin Universitythe foundation for doctoral degree education of the Education Ministry of China
文摘A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.
文摘A three-dimensional nearshore circulation model was developed by coupling CH3D, a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model and REF/DIF, a nearshore wave transformation model. The model solves the three-dimensional wave-averaged equations of motion. Wave-induced effects on circulation were introduced in the form of radiation stresses, wave-induced mass transport, wave-induced enhancement of bottom friction and wave-induced turbulent mixing. Effects of breaking waves were considered following Svendsen (1984a and 1984b) and Stive and Wind (1986). The model was successfully tested against the analytical solution of longshore currents by Longuet and Higgins (1970). The model successfully simulated the undertow as observed in a laboratory experiment by Stive and Wind (1982). In addition, the model was applied to a physical model by Mory and Hamm (1997) and successfully reproduced the eddy behind a detached breakwater as well as the longshore current on the open beach and the contiguous eddy in the open area of the wave tank. While the qualitative agreement between model results and experimental observations was very good, the quantitative agreement needs to be further improved. Albeit difficult to explain every discrepancy between the model results and observations, in general, sources of errors are attributed to the lack of understanding and comprehensive description of following processes: (1)the horizontal and vertical distribution of radiation stress, especially for breaking waves;(2)the detailed structure of turbulence;(3)Wave-current interaction (not included at this moment); and (4)the wave-current boundary layer and the resulting bottom shear stress.
文摘A method for the calculation of total horizontal wave forces by irregular breaking waves on vertical wall was developed by authors, which was based on physical model test, dimensionless analysis and assessment of real construction. The methods for the determination of pressure distribution of horizontal forces on vertical wall as well as u-plift forces on the bottom of wall are also given. The comparison between calculated results by this method and samples of real construction are very well.
基金Supported by Program for New Century Excellent Talents in University of China (Grant No.NCET-04-0267)Program for Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teams of Colleges and Universities of China (Grant No.IRT0420)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.50679010)
文摘As an important hydrodynamic phenomenon in the nearshore zone, the cross-shore surf beat is numerically studied in this paper with a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. Compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics. Wave breaking and run-up in the swash zone are included in the numerical model. Mutual interactions between short waves and long waves are inherent in the model. The numerical study of long waves is based on bichromatic wave groups with a wide range of mean frequencies, group frequencies and modulation rates. The cross-shore variation in the amplitudes of short waves and long waves is investigated. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and good agreement is found.
文摘When irregular waves attack a vertical wall, standing waves and breaking (or broken) waves will occur in front of the wall. The statistic characteristics of standing wave forces on vertical wall are the same as that of incident waves. But for breaking or broken waves, only large waves break, so the statistic characteristics of breaking wave forces are different to that of standing waves or incident waves. Following a series model test of irregular breaking waves on vertical wall the statistic characterisitics of breaking wave fo.rces were analyzed in this paper. It is found by authors that Weibul distribution may be used to express the statistic distribution of breaking wave forces acting on vertical wall. msed on the analysis of model test data, it is indicated in this paper that the shape parameter m in Weibul distribution is a function of and , in which H is the wave height, d1 is the water depth at the toe of vertical wall and d is the water depth in front of the whole structure; and the theoretical value of scale parameter a can be determined from shape parameter m.
