A numerical wave model based on the modified fourth-order nonlinear Schroe dinger equation （mNLSE） in deep water was developed to simulate the formation of freak waves and a standard split - step, pseudo-spectral me...A numerical wave model based on the modified fourth-order nonlinear Schroe dinger equation （mNLSE） in deep water was developed to simulate the formation of freak waves and a standard split - step, pseudo-spectral method was used to solve the equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, then the simulation of freak waves was performed by changing sideband conditions, and the variation of wave energy was also analyzed in the evolution. The results indicate that Benjamin - Feir instability （ sideband instability） is an important mechanism for freak wave formation.展开更多
In the present study, Kriebel＇ s method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory. The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tan...In the present study, Kriebel＇ s method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory. The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank. The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel＇ s method of the same energy. It can ＇also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel＇ s and can hardly influence the significant wave height.展开更多
Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum. The evolution of initial random wave trains is namerically carried out within the framework of the...Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum. The evolution of initial random wave trains is namerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schroedinger equation （mNLSE）, and some involved influence factors are also discussed. Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied, a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train, and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips paranleter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves. The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.展开更多
An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains ...An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains with various periods and wave heights are generated by a wave maker using the improved JONSWAP spectrum. It is observed that there are different kinds of generation processes and waveforms of freak waves. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs (where Hm is the maximum wave height of wave series, and Hs is significant wave height) is analyzed in detail, in terms of the skewness, kurtosis and water depth, as well as the relationship between freak wave height H& and skewness. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs is found to be in positive correlation with the kurtosis, while larger H[x tends to be related with bigger skewness. The rapid variation of water depth, such as slope and seamount, contributes to the occurrence probability of freak waves.展开更多
Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are a...Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.展开更多
Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simula...Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.展开更多
In this study we have for the first time proposed a novel transformed linear simulation method for the estimation of wave crest amplitudes distribution and freak wave occurrence in a short crested mixed sea with a bim...In this study we have for the first time proposed a novel transformed linear simulation method for the estimation of wave crest amplitudes distribution and freak wave occurrence in a short crested mixed sea with a bimodal 3D spectrum. For implementing the proposed transformed linear simulation method, a Hermite transformation model expressed in a monotonic cubic polynomial has been constructed so that the first four moments of the original true process match the corresponding moments of the transformed model. The proposed novel simulation method has been applied to forecast the freak wave occurrence in two short crested mixed sea states, one with a directional wave spectrum based on the measured surface elevation data at the coast of Yura, and the other one with a typical directional bimodal Torsethaugen wave spectrum. It is shown in the two cases that the proposed novel simulation method can offer more accurate forecasting results than those obtained from the traditional linear simulation method or by using Rayleigh distribution model. It is also demonstrated in this article that the proposed novel simulation method is more efficient than the nonlinear simulation method.展开更多
A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schoedinger （NKS） equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equ...A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schoedinger （NKS） equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is perforated by changing sideband condi- tions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed.展开更多
文摘A numerical wave model based on the modified fourth-order nonlinear Schroe dinger equation （mNLSE） in deep water was developed to simulate the formation of freak waves and a standard split - step, pseudo-spectral method was used to solve the equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, then the simulation of freak waves was performed by changing sideband conditions, and the variation of wave energy was also analyzed in the evolution. The results indicate that Benjamin - Feir instability （ sideband instability） is an important mechanism for freak wave formation.
基金The project was supported by the Key Foundation of Ministry of Education of China (Grant No104061)
文摘In the present study, Kriebel＇ s method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory. The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank. The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel＇ s method of the same energy. It can ＇also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel＇ s and can hardly influence the significant wave height.
基金supported by the International Science and Technology Cooperation Program(Grant No.2007DFA60490)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.50679078)the Innovation Foundation of Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion (Grant No.0807r51001)
文摘Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum. The evolution of initial random wave trains is namerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schroedinger equation （mNLSE）, and some involved influence factors are also discussed. Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied, a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train, and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips paranleter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves. The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.
基金The Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology under contract No.QNLM20160RP0402the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51522902 and 51579040+1 种基金the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities under contract No.DUT17ZD233the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of China under contract No.[2016]22
文摘An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains with various periods and wave heights are generated by a wave maker using the improved JONSWAP spectrum. It is observed that there are different kinds of generation processes and waveforms of freak waves. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs (where Hm is the maximum wave height of wave series, and Hs is significant wave height) is analyzed in detail, in terms of the skewness, kurtosis and water depth, as well as the relationship between freak wave height H& and skewness. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs is found to be in positive correlation with the kurtosis, while larger H[x tends to be related with bigger skewness. The rapid variation of water depth, such as slope and seamount, contributes to the occurrence probability of freak waves.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51079023 and 51221961)the National Basic Research Program of China(973 Program,Grant Nos.2011CB013703 and 2013CB036101)
文摘Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.
基金The Key Technology Program,the Ministry of Education of China under contract No.104061
文摘Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.
基金financially supported by the funding of an independent research project from the Chinese State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering(Grant No.GKZD010068/084)
文摘In this study we have for the first time proposed a novel transformed linear simulation method for the estimation of wave crest amplitudes distribution and freak wave occurrence in a short crested mixed sea with a bimodal 3D spectrum. For implementing the proposed transformed linear simulation method, a Hermite transformation model expressed in a monotonic cubic polynomial has been constructed so that the first four moments of the original true process match the corresponding moments of the transformed model. The proposed novel simulation method has been applied to forecast the freak wave occurrence in two short crested mixed sea states, one with a directional wave spectrum based on the measured surface elevation data at the coast of Yura, and the other one with a typical directional bimodal Torsethaugen wave spectrum. It is shown in the two cases that the proposed novel simulation method can offer more accurate forecasting results than those obtained from the traditional linear simulation method or by using Rayleigh distribution model. It is also demonstrated in this article that the proposed novel simulation method is more efficient than the nonlinear simulation method.
基金This paperis part of the research project (104061)supported by the keytechnology program,the Ministry of Educa-tion of China
文摘A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schoedinger （NKS） equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is perforated by changing sideband condi- tions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed.
