The wave energy resource around the coasts of Taiwan is investigated with wave buoy data covering a 3-year period （2007-2009）. Eleven study sites within the region bounded by the 21.5^°N-25.5°N latitudes a...The wave energy resource around the coasts of Taiwan is investigated with wave buoy data covering a 3-year period （2007-2009）. Eleven study sites within the region bounded by the 21.5^°N-25.5°N latitudes and 118°E-122°E longitudes are selected for analysis. The monthly moving-average filter is used to obtain the low-frequency trend based on the available hourly data. After quantifying the wave power and annual wave energy, the substantial resource is the result of Penghu buoy station, which is at the northeastern side of Penghu Island in the Taiwan Strait. it is investigated that the Penghu sea area is determined to be the optimal place for wave energy production according to its abundant resource of northeasterly monsoon waves, sheltering of the Taiwan Island, operation and maintenance in terms of seasonal conditions, and constructability of wave power devices.展开更多
In 1994,Townend proposed a method to calculate the relative changes in various wave characteristics and structure-related parameters due to sea level rise for regular waves.The method was extended to irregular waves b...In 1994,Townend proposed a method to calculate the relative changes in various wave characteristics and structure-related parameters due to sea level rise for regular waves.The method was extended to irregular waves by Cheon and Suh in 2016.In this study,this method is further extended to include the effect of future change in offshore wave height and the sea level rise.The relative changes in wavelength,refraction coefficient,shoaling coefficient,and wave height in nearshore area are presented as functions of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height.The calculated relative changes in wave characteristics are then used to estimate the effect of sea level rise and offshore wave height change on coastal structures by calculating the relative changes in wave run-up height,overtopping discharge,crest freeboard,and armor weight of the structures.The relative changes in wave characteristics and structure-related parameters are all expressed as a function of the relative water depth for various combinations of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height.展开更多
Studies of offshore wave climate based on satellite altimeter significant wave height（SWH） have widespread application value. This study used a calibrated multi-altimeter SWH dataset to investigate the wave climate ...Studies of offshore wave climate based on satellite altimeter significant wave height（SWH） have widespread application value. This study used a calibrated multi-altimeter SWH dataset to investigate the wave climate characteristics in the offshore areas of China. First, the SWH measurements from 28 buoys located in China＇s coastal seas were compared with an Ifremer calibrated altimeter SWH dataset. Although the altimeter dataset tended to slightly overestimate SWH, it was in good agreement with the in situ data in general. The correlation coefficient was 0.97 and the root-mean-square（RMS） of differences was 0.30 m. The validation results showed a slight difference in different areas. The correlation coefficient was the maximum（0.97） and the RMS difference was the minimum（0.28 m） in the area from the East China Sea to the north of the South China Sea.The correlation coefficient of approximately 0.95 was relatively low in the seas off the Changjiang（Yangtze River） Estuary. The RMS difference was the maximum（0.32 m） in the seas off the Changjiang Estuary and was0.30 m in the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea. Based on the above evidence, it is confirmed that the multialtimeter wave data are reliable in China＇s offshore areas. Then, the characteristics of the wave field, including the frequency of huge waves and the multi-year return SWH in China＇s offshore seas were analyzed using the23-year altimeter wave dataset. The 23-year mean SWH generally ranged from 0.6-2.2 m. The greatest SWH appeared in the southeast of the China East Sea, the Taiwan Strait and the northeast of the South China Sea.Obvious seasonal variation of SWH was found in most areas; SWH was greater in winter and autumn than in summer and spring. Extreme waves greater than 4 m in height mainly occurred in the following areas： the southeast of the East China Sea, the south of the Ryukyu Islands, the east of Taiwan-Luzon Island, and the Dongsha Islands extending to the Zhongsha Islands, and the frequency of extreme waves was 3%展开更多
The Maximum Entropy Principle (MEP) method is elaborated, and thecorresponding probability density evaluation method for the random fluctuation system is introduced,the goal of the article is to find the best fitting ...The Maximum Entropy Principle (MEP) method is elaborated, and thecorresponding probability density evaluation method for the random fluctuation system is introduced,the goal of the article is to find the best fitting method for the wave climate statisticaldistribution. For the first time, a kind of new maximum entropy probability distribution (MEPdistribution) expression is deduced in accordance with the second order moment of a random process.Different from all the fitting methods in the past, the MEP distribution can describe theprobability distribution of any random fluctuation system conveniently and reasonably. If themoments of the random signal is limited to the second order, that is, the ratio of theroot-mean-square value to the mean value of the random variable is obtained from the random sample,the corresponding MEP distribution can be computed according to the deduced expression in thisessay. The concept of the wave climate is introduced here, and the MEP distribution is applied tofit the probability density distributions of the significant wave height and spectral peak period.Take the Mexico Gulf as an example, three stations at different locations, depths and wind wavestrengths are chosen in the half-closed gulf, the significant wave height and spectral peak perioddistributions at each station are fitted with the MEP distribution, the Weibull distribution and theLog-normal distribution respectively, the fitted results are compared with the field observations,the results show that the MEP distribution is the best fitting method, and the Weibull distributionis the worst one when applied to the significant wave height and spectral peak period distributionsat different locations, water depths and wind wave strengths in the Gulf. The conclusion shows thefeasibility and reasonability of fitting wave climate statistical distributions with the deduced MEPdistributions in this essay, and furthermore proves the great potential of MEP method to the studyof wave statistical properties.展开更多
The wind-sea and swell climates in the China Seas are investigated by using the 27-yr Integrated Ocean Waves for Geophysical and other Applications(IOWAGA)hindcast data.A comparison is made between the significant wav...The wind-sea and swell climates in the China Seas are investigated by using the 27-yr Integrated Ocean Waves for Geophysical and other Applications(IOWAGA)hindcast data.A comparison is made between the significant wave height from the IOWAGA hindcasts and that from a jointly calibrated altimetry dataset,showing the good performance of the IOWAGA hindcasts in the China Seas.A simple but practical method of diagnosing whether the sea state is wind-sea-dominant or swell-dominant is proposed based on spectral partitioning.Different from the characteristics of wind-seas and swells in the open ocean,the wave fields in the enclosed seas such as the China Seas are predominated by wind-sea events in respect of both frequencies of occurrences and energy weights,due to the island sheltering and limited fetches.The energy weights of wind-seas in a given location is usually more significant than the occurrence probability of wind-sea-dominated events,as the wave energy is higher in the wind-sea events than in the swell events on average and extreme wave heights are mostly related to wind-seas.The most energetic swells in the China Seas(and other enclosed seas)are‘local swells’,having just propagated out of their generation areas.However,the swells coming from the West Pacific also play an important role in the wave climate of the China Seas,which can only be revealed by partitioning different swell systems in the wave spectra as the energy of them is significantly less than the‘local swells’.展开更多
基金sponsored by the Research Center of Ocean Environment and Technology under Grant No. D99-1500the Science Council under Grant No. NSC 100-2917-I-564-064
文摘The wave energy resource around the coasts of Taiwan is investigated with wave buoy data covering a 3-year period （2007-2009）. Eleven study sites within the region bounded by the 21.5^°N-25.5°N latitudes and 118°E-122°E longitudes are selected for analysis. The monthly moving-average filter is used to obtain the low-frequency trend based on the available hourly data. After quantifying the wave power and annual wave energy, the substantial resource is the result of Penghu buoy station, which is at the northeastern side of Penghu Island in the Taiwan Strait. it is investigated that the Penghu sea area is determined to be the optimal place for wave energy production according to its abundant resource of northeasterly monsoon waves, sheltering of the Taiwan Island, operation and maintenance in terms of seasonal conditions, and constructability of wave power devices.
基金National Research Foundation of Korea(NRF)funded by Korea Ministry of Science,ICT and Future Planning(NRF-2014R1A2A2A01007921)
文摘In 1994,Townend proposed a method to calculate the relative changes in various wave characteristics and structure-related parameters due to sea level rise for regular waves.The method was extended to irregular waves by Cheon and Suh in 2016.In this study,this method is further extended to include the effect of future change in offshore wave height and the sea level rise.The relative changes in wavelength,refraction coefficient,shoaling coefficient,and wave height in nearshore area are presented as functions of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height.The calculated relative changes in wave characteristics are then used to estimate the effect of sea level rise and offshore wave height change on coastal structures by calculating the relative changes in wave run-up height,overtopping discharge,crest freeboard,and armor weight of the structures.The relative changes in wave characteristics and structure-related parameters are all expressed as a function of the relative water depth for various combinations of the relative changes in water depth and offshore wave height.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.41276009
文摘Studies of offshore wave climate based on satellite altimeter significant wave height（SWH） have widespread application value. This study used a calibrated multi-altimeter SWH dataset to investigate the wave climate characteristics in the offshore areas of China. First, the SWH measurements from 28 buoys located in China＇s coastal seas were compared with an Ifremer calibrated altimeter SWH dataset. Although the altimeter dataset tended to slightly overestimate SWH, it was in good agreement with the in situ data in general. The correlation coefficient was 0.97 and the root-mean-square（RMS） of differences was 0.30 m. The validation results showed a slight difference in different areas. The correlation coefficient was the maximum（0.97） and the RMS difference was the minimum（0.28 m） in the area from the East China Sea to the north of the South China Sea.The correlation coefficient of approximately 0.95 was relatively low in the seas off the Changjiang（Yangtze River） Estuary. The RMS difference was the maximum（0.32 m） in the seas off the Changjiang Estuary and was0.30 m in the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea. Based on the above evidence, it is confirmed that the multialtimeter wave data are reliable in China＇s offshore areas. Then, the characteristics of the wave field, including the frequency of huge waves and the multi-year return SWH in China＇s offshore seas were analyzed using the23-year altimeter wave dataset. The 23-year mean SWH generally ranged from 0.6-2.2 m. The greatest SWH appeared in the southeast of the China East Sea, the Taiwan Strait and the northeast of the South China Sea.Obvious seasonal variation of SWH was found in most areas; SWH was greater in winter and autumn than in summer and spring. Extreme waves greater than 4 m in height mainly occurred in the following areas： the southeast of the East China Sea, the south of the Ryukyu Islands, the east of Taiwan-Luzon Island, and the Dongsha Islands extending to the Zhongsha Islands, and the frequency of extreme waves was 3%
文摘The Maximum Entropy Principle (MEP) method is elaborated, and thecorresponding probability density evaluation method for the random fluctuation system is introduced,the goal of the article is to find the best fitting method for the wave climate statisticaldistribution. For the first time, a kind of new maximum entropy probability distribution (MEPdistribution) expression is deduced in accordance with the second order moment of a random process.Different from all the fitting methods in the past, the MEP distribution can describe theprobability distribution of any random fluctuation system conveniently and reasonably. If themoments of the random signal is limited to the second order, that is, the ratio of theroot-mean-square value to the mean value of the random variable is obtained from the random sample,the corresponding MEP distribution can be computed according to the deduced expression in thisessay. The concept of the wave climate is introduced here, and the MEP distribution is applied tofit the probability density distributions of the significant wave height and spectral peak period.Take the Mexico Gulf as an example, three stations at different locations, depths and wind wavestrengths are chosen in the half-closed gulf, the significant wave height and spectral peak perioddistributions at each station are fitted with the MEP distribution, the Weibull distribution and theLog-normal distribution respectively, the fitted results are compared with the field observations,the results show that the MEP distribution is the best fitting method, and the Weibull distributionis the worst one when applied to the significant wave height and spectral peak period distributionsat different locations, water depths and wind wave strengths in the Gulf. The conclusion shows thefeasibility and reasonability of fitting wave climate statistical distributions with the deduced MEPdistributions in this essay, and furthermore proves the great potential of MEP method to the studyof wave statistical properties.
基金supported by the National Key R&D Program of China (No. 2017YFC1404700) the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No. 41806010)+2 种基金 Laboratory for Regional Oceanography and Numerical Modeling,Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology (No. 2019A03) the Discipline Layout Project for Basic Research of Shenzhen Science and Technology Innovation Committee (No. 20170418) the Guangdong Special Fund Program for Marine Economy Development (No. GDME-2018E001)
文摘The wind-sea and swell climates in the China Seas are investigated by using the 27-yr Integrated Ocean Waves for Geophysical and other Applications(IOWAGA)hindcast data.A comparison is made between the significant wave height from the IOWAGA hindcasts and that from a jointly calibrated altimetry dataset,showing the good performance of the IOWAGA hindcasts in the China Seas.A simple but practical method of diagnosing whether the sea state is wind-sea-dominant or swell-dominant is proposed based on spectral partitioning.Different from the characteristics of wind-seas and swells in the open ocean,the wave fields in the enclosed seas such as the China Seas are predominated by wind-sea events in respect of both frequencies of occurrences and energy weights,due to the island sheltering and limited fetches.The energy weights of wind-seas in a given location is usually more significant than the occurrence probability of wind-sea-dominated events,as the wave energy is higher in the wind-sea events than in the swell events on average and extreme wave heights are mostly related to wind-seas.The most energetic swells in the China Seas(and other enclosed seas)are‘local swells’,having just propagated out of their generation areas.However,the swells coming from the West Pacific also play an important role in the wave climate of the China Seas,which can only be revealed by partitioning different swell systems in the wave spectra as the energy of them is significantly less than the‘local swells’.
